Baños de la Hedionda: Roman Legends and Sulphur Springs in Casares

Secret CDS
May 15
3 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

Hidden in the hills near Casares, explore a sulphurous spring that isn’t just good for your skin—it’s steeped in 2,000 years of legends, from Julius Caesar to the devil himself.

These sulphurous waters have been famous for centuries for their skin-healing properties—good for conditions like dermatitis, eczema, and other irritations. The most famous visitor? Julius Caesar, before his rise to power in 61 BC. According to legend, he came here on the advice of locals to heal a persistent skin issue. When the baths worked their magic, he ordered the construction of the original bathhouse in thanks.

And while it’s been rebuilt and reshaped over the centuries, a structure has stood on this spot for over 2,000 years. Step inside today and you’ll find a beautifully preserved Roman-Arab hybrid: a domed central chamber with two vaulted galleries on either side. The space has been carefully restored through the ages, especially during the Moorish period, yet still holds the quiet simplicity of ancient design. It’s one of those rare places where two empires—Roman and Islamic—share the same stones.

And about that smell… the name Hedionda translates roughly to “stinking,” thanks to the sulphur content. Another enduring tale says that Saint James (Santiago) once expelled the devil from these waters. As the devil fled, he let out a final breath, leaving behind that eggy scent.

My Kind of 5-Star Stay

I’m all about natural hot springs—this is my version of a 5-star spa. Drop me into a naturally heated pool surrounded by nature, and my stress levels just melt away. So when I heard about Baños de la Hedionda, tucked into the hills near Casares, I couldn’t wait to check it out.

Spoiler alert: they’re not hot. The spring holds steady at around 21°C year-round, which felt bracing—but not unbearable—on a sunny October day. Despite the chill, the place more than makes up for it in atmosphere, history, and a bit of sulphuric magic.

🧖‍♀️ The Experience

We swam. We gave ourselves greenish mud facials (no photos, sorry). We floated in the cool, milky water, surrounded by reeds, bamboo, and steep limestone cliffs. For a moment, it really did feel like time slowed down. If you visit in the off-season, you might have the place almost to yourself, which makes the experience even more special.

The colour of the water shifts depending on the light—sometimes clear, sometimes ghostly pale. Nature here feels very much alive, and very much unbothered by the passage of time.

📍 Practical Tips for Visiting Baños de la Hedionda

Getting there: Officially in Casares, but easiest to reach from Manilva. From the A-7, follow signs for Camino de los Baños. The last stretch is a dirt track; vehicles must stop before a protected zone.
Parking: Use the designated lot and walk about 500 metres to the springs. Flat but sun-exposed—bring sun protection.
Entry & hours:
- Free entry all year
- Late June–mid September: You’ll need to book a free time slot via the Casares Tourism Office site
- Low season: No booking required
What to bring: Towel, water, snacks, change of clothes. No on-site facilities.
Footwear: Good walking shoes for the path and grippy sandals for the water.
Best time to go: Early morning or late afternoon to beat the heat and crowds.
Respect the space: Protected ecological and historical site—take only memories, leave only footprints.

🏞️ While You're in the Area

There’s much more to discover nearby. The Sierra de la Utrera, where the baths are located, is a limestone-rich nature area with striking karst formations and walking trails (now officially on my list). There’s also a quirky Roman-themed mini golf course down the road, if that’s more your pace.

Just a short drive away is the postcard-perfect Casares Pueblo, often called the “sugar cube village.” Its whitewashed houses stacked on the hillside are worth a wander, camera in hand.